International Paint – Garage Floor Failure

Okay, here’s the latest problem and I’ve just sent my first enquiry to International Paints, so let’s see how this tracks out.

I sealed my Garage some time ago with International Concrete Sealer paint, and it worked a charm. It stopped the dust fallout that was happening on my car and covering it in concrete dust within a day. Superb.

Then I decided to paint the floor with a heavy duty (mind those words now) garage floor paint, for this I chose the Smokey Blue Quick Drying Floor Paint from the very same company. The Concrete Sealant actually recommends using the same make and this brand of paint on the floor. Just under £50 a tin.

That was two weekends ago, and the paint is coming off the floor and taking the sealant with it.


A little came off the other day and I thought it was just fluke. Then there’s another four or five patches where it’s coming off. I can’t believe it. The cost and effort we put into painting that place, and it’s not like normal painting mind you, this stuff is toxic so that means regular breaks. Plus the paint is very viscous indeed, not an easy job at all.

Now my concern is that the whole lot will have to be lifted and redone, if it’s just started in the last few days, what’s going to happen in a few months?

Before we go any further, let’s get a few things clear.

  1. I had owned my garage for over six months prior to painting.
  2. I am the first owner and last to move in the block, and all had garages prior to moving in.
  3. The garage floor does not suffer from damp.
  4. The garage floor was well cleaned prior to sealing.
  5. The sealant was on the floor for months prior to painting and did not lift.
  6. The car remains in the garage and does not move during the week.
  7. The wheels of the car are not turned inside the garage, since it is narrow it is straight in and out.
  8. No chemicals are used in the garage.
  9. No chemicals are used to wash the car.
  10. All preparation instructions on both paints were followed.

Now I think that’s about it. As of fifteen minutes ago I tried phoning the helpline number on their site, it gave an unusual ring and was not answered. So I used their online email form and posted a query to their “experts” on the site. I have asked for an answer within five working days and a request as to what should be done now.

We shall wait and see.

45 comments on “International Paint – Garage Floor Failure”

  1. Lee Reply

    Oh dear.

    My garage floor paint is lifting in areas of heavy wear, but that’s after 4 years. The sealant was home-mixed 5:1 water:PVA glue, paint was Screwfix’s own label.

    Days? That’s pisch.

  2. john Reply

    probably the second time you used the paint was much more cheaper i guess and that could be the problem.so you must have choosed the previous one could have mantained your car .

  3. Rob Reply

    Hi

    Just found your blog about the problems you had with your garage floor paint. Was wondering if you resolved it with International Paints as I’m about to embark on the same project, with the same materials?

  4. Richard Reply

    My advice? DO NOT use the International Paints products. They have deliberately stopped talking to me and are ignoring my requests.

    Since the above story I managed to get in contact with someone who said it was my fault. I pointed out how I had followed the instructions and exactly what had happened, eventually they sent me a “sample kit” (otherwise known as a waste time and keep unhappy customers convinced something is happening kit).

    I took samples, returned them, and since then they’ve ignored my requests for an update or explanation.

    Strangely, the paint has still not lifted anywhere in the garage except for where the wheels finally rest on the floor. Nowhere else but those four patches of about a hand size.

    If you are interested, I have some photos which you can view. Let me know Rob. However I would recommend something completely different to these products.

  5. Rob Bentley Reply

    hi

    I had exactly the same problem with my garage floor. I used 2 cans of international garage floor sealer, then 3 cans of international garage floor paint, which did 2 coats. Days later, it’s peeling whenever I remove the car. 2 years down the line – it looks terrible. If you find out how to rectify the situation – please let me know ! I don’t know if I need to remove the remains of the paint before starting again with a better product (2 pack epoxy?) – or is there anything that can go straight over the top? (not carpet thanks!)

    Rob Bentley

    Bournemouth

  6. Richard Reply

    Rob it’s terrible, the company are just ignoring their legal rights and not answering, so I have no idea at this point.

    I might consider raising a small claims case against them through the Scottish courts. It’s a relatively simple process and costs me very little to begin.

    I’ll let you know how that goes.

  7. Rob Reply

    Sorry that it hasn’t been resolved and thanks for the response. I don’t intend to park my car in the garage (too full of recycling bins and tumble driers!), just wanted a dust free garage which is better for storage. So I may get away with it as long as I don’t change my intentions. Nevertheless you have been treated shoddily and I wonder if I should look for alternatives . . if there are any?

  8. Nick Morrison Reply

    Well all i can say is that what a waste of time and effort…

    I’ve waited years to have a garage and recently moved into our new home in june, i stripped the garage of it’s previous office environment and prepped the floor for an application of International Concrete sealant.

    job done it looked great, waited for a few days for it to go off before applying my smokey blue International garage paint. I eventually got around to painting the floor two weekends after originally sealing it due to work commitments, this i didn’t mind as i thought the floor would be a great surface.

    We had great weather and i left the paint for a 4 days before walking on it, the weekend came and went and i gave it a second coat on a wednesday my Motorbike was still at my parents before going off for a service which i got back on the following friday. (9 days later)

    The paint was dry and looked fantastic, as i’m going to be wheeling my motorbike in and out i thought it was perfect. 6 days later of wheeling the bike in and it’s started lifting where the front tyre has to be turned to place the steering lock on. the wife drove the car in and where she straightened up the wheels at the entrance to the garage the paint has tyre marks. Very dissapointed!

    I would not recommend this stuff to anyone and wished i’d not bothered, the floor looks worse than bare concrete.

  9. Bob Reply

    Oh dear.

    I’ve just started to paint my new garage with International Smokey Blue. I haven’t used a sealer, I figured as it costs the same price as the paint, why not just use more paint.

    The concrete base was poured over a year before the garage was constructed, and as a result has had a full years worth of weathering, including winter! I’ve also swept it regularly througout the year.

    Since the garage has been finished, I’ve spent several days wire brushing and vacuuming the floor before starting to paint today. I’ve only completed one side, and will not move the cars and equipment on to it until later this week, probably Friday. Will let you know how it turns out!

  10. Adam Reply

    Hi guys, don’t want to skeak too soon or tempt fait but I painted my garage floor about a month ago with international garage floor paint.

    So far so good! I have to admit the floor is around 25 years old and a little rough but it covered great! I didn’t use any sealer but applied a thick coat one afternoon then another thick coat the next morning (about 28 degrees outside at the time). I moved everything back in the following evening along with the car and had no trouble since! Touch wood!!!!

    I’ve dropped various heavy items on the floor and it seems to be ok. The only thing I have noticed is four black tyre prints appearing where the wheels sit (tried washing them off but couldn’t) although my friend has informed me this is quite normal and I’m not really surprised at the front the way I tend to screw the wheels around when I enter the garage!

    Anyway, a small price to pay for the lack of dust recently!

    If it starts to lift i’ll let you know!

  11. Malcolm Reply

    I’ve experienced the same, did exactly the same as you, sealed, then two coats of the floor paint, and then left for 7 days. Within 2 weeks it was lifting at the tyres.

    I initially thought it was my application that was to blame but after finding this, I see I’m not alone. My next plan is to repaint the affected areas, then put down 4 rubber mats for the wheels to sit on, this I hope should also catch dirt.

    I only managed one coat of my double garage out of a 5-litre tin, did anyone else experience this?

  12. Richard Brunton Reply

    Bob\Adam – I hope the paint doesn’t lift for you.

    Malcolm – that’s really interesting that you’re getting the same issues. Unsurprisingly the company are avoiding me like the plague and I can’t get hold of them. Has the paint lifted anywhere else or just where the tyres rest?

  13. Nick Edwards Reply

    Hi

    I’ve used International floor paint about 3 years ago – what a waste of time!!

    Took ages to dry & has lifted in patches, worn in others & is not oil or fuel proof.

    I have been reliably informed that single pack polyurethane paints are not really up to the sort of abuse that they get in a garage.

    At work they use a very expensive 2 pack expoxy finish that is trowelled on & self levels. Its about 3mm thick & very expensive but if there was a cheaper alternative they would have used it bearing in mind the area must be something like 3000sq metres (its an aircraft hanger). Its been down about 5 years & all the other buildings have been done too. I reckon you get what you pay for (or probably slightly less!!)

    Have a look on ebay for alternative floor coverings – I am going to use interlocking vinyl or foam tiles.

  14. Richard Brunton Reply

    Hey Nick, good advice. I’ve just decided to get rubber floor strips for where the tyres go, the rest of my floor is okay though.

  15. phil heald Reply

    Just came across your site after looking into possibilty of buying int Paint concrete sealer.

    Thanks to your comments I will look for an alternative

  16. Richard Brunton Reply

    Phil, you’ve made my week. I’ve not posted much on my personal site for a long time as I sometimes wonder if people really find any use from it, but you have and hopefully I’ve saved you some time and effort.

    Let me know if you find something better.

  17. Brian D Vasey Reply

    Dear Richard sorry to hear about your paint problem, too many of the “big guys” out there shy away from helping the little guys, but perhaps I could help a little being just a small independant industrial paint supplier, not having seen your floor i am only guesing though. 1, most paints like the top coat to be applied within a set period before the surface of the primer becomes too hard to bond correctly they dont tell you this too clearly though,

    2 whilst most standard floorpaints and this is just an expensive single pack floorpaint, are fine for foot traffic a car when driven into a garage usually has warm tyres and tends to pull against the paint as they cool down, thus dragging up the surface,thats why one reader had been recomended to put down mats, May i humbly suggest that next time you should consider a two pack product epoxy resin which is much harder and stronger and will resist the tyre pressures better. But be warned now you have applied a single pack product you have to be careful what you can put over the top as some epoxys can react badly with normal floor paints.

    That still does not excuse the lack of answers you have been waiting for from the “experts” yours Brian D Vasey

    Regional Paints Leeds

  18. weblog.brunton.org.uk Reply

    Brian, usually I wouldn’t allow adverts in comments but you’ve obviously read the the article and given some great suggestions.

    Thanks very much for that, and if I do come to rework the floor again I’ll heed your advice and perhaps even check out your shop first.

  19. chris Reply

    oh, shit. Reading the comments has brought back so many bad memories. About 17 years ago I painted our garage floor and experienced all the problems you are having: lifting paint, sticky floors etc. I’ve just built a new garage at our new home ……… and guess what….. it’s happening again. Last time I didn’t seal the floor – this time I did with pva and water 5:1. I don’t know if I used International before but I have today and the whole nightmare is starting again…. touch dry in 1 hour my arse. Still, I’m glad that it’s not only me, and not my fault. This paint is shit and I will never use it again and it is well over priced.

  20. Iain Mackay Reply

    Very interesting. I am researching painting a new garage floor to (a) keep dust down and (b) protect it from spillages for when I get round to painting my dinghy in there. I have been looking at Firwood products (www.firwood.co.uk), and they make a big thing of carefully preparing the concrete prior to any painting. The key issue appears to be a phenomenon called “laitance” which new concrete exhibits, and basically means that the top few mm of the surface has much weaker adhesion to the mass of the concrete than any other part. They recommend either mechanical abrasion of this top surface, or else etching with an acidic preparation before applying any coating. I wonder if this would have prevented the problem you’re seeing. One thing I know is that I’m going to take the research very seriously before I part with upwards of £70 for materials.

    Hope this helps.

  21. Carl Finch Reply

    I epoxied my garage floor with Benjamin Moore’s Industrial Maintenance

    Coatings, 2-part epoxy, M36/M39 Polyamide Epoxy Gloss Coating .

    The results were spectacular in terms of finish and I have had no hot-tire

    lifting at all. Most dirt just sweeps off. Oils just come up with a paper

    towel. This is impressive given that I had a previous ‘paint’ (supposedly

    some new type of epoxy) done by a contractor. Not only did it lift under

    car tires, it lifted under a bicycle tire!

    Here is what I did and learned.

    1. Prep is critical, as all the brochures say. While my prior coating came

    up easily in some places, it did not in others. I ended up renting a Hilti

    hand-held grinder-vac at Sunbelt Rental and grinding the entire floor. It’s

    a hands-and-knees job, and time consuming, but it took me down to bare

    concrete and also removed some of the bumps and splotches from a lousy

    concrete job. Wear knee pads and ear protection. I actually used the small

    foam ear plugs underneath a noise-attenuating headset. And wear eye

    protection because of the concrete dust thrown by the grinder.

    My hope for your sake is that you don’t have any prior paint and don’t

    have to go through a similar grinding step.

    2. Then I washed with TSP and rinsed several times.

    3. Then came the muriatic acid etch. It’s not as scary as you’d think;

    just follow the directions.

    But here’s a TIP for an issue that I’ve not seen described anywhere.

    Move all iron and steel things out of the garage. If you can’t do that wrap

    them in plastic. Even the fumes of the muriatic acid makes steel rust very

    badly. Tools I had hanging on the wall were covered with rust the following

    day.

    The second part of the wash with muriatic acid is to neutralize it with

    a solution of baking soda. For the concentration mixtures of the acid and

    baking soda solution follow instructions provided with the muriatic acid, or

    seek someone with experience in a paint store.

    3. Then let it dry several days. Use the trick of taping a piece of

    plastic over a couple square feet of floor overnight. If it’s completely

    dry in the morning the floor is probably dry enough. (If water never ceases

    to appear under the plastic you’ve got a water source coming up through the

    concrete. If so, paint or epoxy are not going to work, so hang it up.)

    4. Then I thought the floor was sufficiently prepared as I was down to bare

    concrete everywhere. I was wrong. The test of adequately clean concrete is

    to put a drop of water on the surface. It should quickly spread out and be

    absorbed. In my several tests I did the water drops penetrated instantly.

    A day later I buy the epoxy (which I had tinted). I got home and did the

    water drop test again for no reason other than that it made me feel great to

    see the water drops instantly penetrate the concrete, given the horrible

    condition of the floor I started with. I tapped a few drops on and suddenly

    one of them just sat there on the surface. Panic! I then proceeded to get

    on my hands and knees and do the droplet test every couple of inches over

    the entire garage floor. More places where it didn’t absorb, and I put

    pieces of sticky notes in each location. When I was done the sticky notes

    mapped out areas corresponding almost exactly to where the car tires rest.

    In those places water did not absorb. This was shocking because not only

    did the concrete look like knew I had ground off the surface with the

    grinder. It appears that the petroleum products that are either in the

    tires or are picked up from the roads are then pressed onto the concrete and

    absorbed. I subsequently did research and read in places that oils and

    paints may penetrate to as deep as 3/4 inch in some circumstances.

    So I ground those places deeper with little effect but I wasn’t about to

    grind 3/4 of an inch because then I’d have to patch with concrete, and if I

    did that I’d have to wait about 90 days (as I recall) for curing before

    applying the epoxy. Finally, not knowing what else to try, I got some

    garage floor degreaser at Home Depot and treated those tire areas several

    times, as per the label, scrubbing, rinsing well, etc. After several

    degreasing cycles the water drops would absorb somewhat in those areas. Not

    as well as in all the non-tire areas, but much better than before. For

    example, a drop might appear to sit there for 2 seconds, then slowly spread

    out and be absorbed. Believing I couldn’t improve it further and not really

    having any alternatives, I moved on.

    [But before doing so, I did another muriatic acid etch (with a higher

    concentration) and a baking soda rinse in those areas I had degreased. Then

    I waited a few days again for it to dry.]

    5. Now time to epoxy. As I said, I used Benjamin Moore’s M36+M39. The

    paint store may give you ‘local wisdom’, or experience, or vague guesses.

    If you want to double check, Benjamin Moore has corporate technical support

    people whom you can call about these products. As it turns out, the owner

    of my local Benjamin Moore store had a lot of experience with the product

    and was a good source, whereas his employees were not.

    You need to know that 2 coats are really recommended to give a good finish.

    You may not find this out if you don’t talk to the right people, so here’s

    another tip. As it turns out, the pigment particles in colored epoxies are

    larger than the solvent molecules. Epoxy is a strong finish because it

    penetrates the crevices (which were caused by the muriatic acid etch) and

    when it hardens it ‘hooks’ into the crevices, which is why it adheres so

    well and doesn’t lift. But if the penetration into the crevices is impeded,

    the epoxy doesn’t grab as well so is more likely to lift off. And the

    pigment impedes the penetration.

    So the officially recommended course is to use a pigment-free first coat.

    However, 2 color coats are necessary to give a good finish, so know you’d be

    talking about 3 applications (one ‘primer’ and two color coats) which means

    more work and expense.

    TIP: You can save one coat by skipping the ‘primer’ coat and thinning the

    1st color coat with epoxy thinner (xylene). [Benjamin Moore sells epoxy

    thinner as M95, but I’m pretty sure it’s nothing more than straight xylene.]

    This is what the owner of the Benjamin Moore store told me. I called the

    B/M tech support line and they wouldn’t recommend it and said the proper

    procedure was the separate ‘primer’ coat. I went back to the B/M store and

    talked to the owner who said that new federal regulations to control

    volatile organic compounds (VOCs) don’t allow B/M to endorse thinning with

    xylene, but that doing so would work just as well as a separate ‘primer’

    coat. Then I called tech support who admitted they couldn’t say much

    because of the VOC regulations. So I asked: “If I had come to you before

    the VOC regulations and had said that I wanted to thin the first pigmented

    coat with xylene and asked you if that would be just as good as using a

    separate primer coat would you have said yes?” He said that he would have

    said yes. So I got my answer and he remained legal.

    My recollection is that I thinned with 1 quart of epoxy thinner (xylene) for

    each 2 gallons of epoxy (1 gal of M36 + 1 gal of M39), but I suggest you

    check with your paint store.

    6. The first application. The obvious means of applying it is rolling it

    on, however you can also squeegee it on, which is what I did. The advantage

    of using a squeegee is that if you have pits and holes in the concrete

    surface you can more nearly fill those with the squeegee than with a roller.

    It’s fairly easy, but with a fairly smooth concrete surface a roller would

    be faster.

    Another tip: There is a range of recommended thickness for each coat,

    but how do you know you’re applying to that thickness and not too thin, or

    too thick (which would have the added risk of running out)? I basically

    marked out areas along one wall with sticky notes every 4 feet, and along a

    perpendicular wall every 5 feet, allowing me to estimate 5’x4′ sections, or

    20 sq ft. I don’t remember the recommended coverage for the 2 mixed

    gallons, but let’s say for example it should cover 600 square feet. So I

    have 2 gallons, or 256 ounces to cover 30 20-sq.ft. sections. So, if I

    apply 8 ounces per 4’x5′ section I’d use 240 ounces, with just 16 ounces

    left over — pretty close to the exact recommended coverage. (I

    intentionally neglected to account for 32 ounces of thinner in the first

    coat, as I didn’t know if it would add exactly that much volume, and I

    wanted to be conservative so I didn’t run out.) Anyway, you get the idea.

    Do the math to your particular situation.

    Then I scooped 8 ounces in a glass cup and drizzled it around each 4’x5′

    section and then squeegeed it to cover. (Or in the case of the 2nd coat,

    rolled it to cover.) Use a glass cup because xylene eats through plastic.

    7. Second coat. It should be ready for a second coat the next day. I

    waited until the 2nd day for the second coat. This one I rolled on. I did

    not add particulate matter to create an anti-skid surface. I live in the

    south where snow and ice are not an issue. Slight wetness hasn’t caused a

    problem, thought I can see that if you had standing water with smooth-soled

    shoes it might be. The downside of sand or some other anti-skid material is

    the high points will show wear sooner as the epoxy is abraided from the

    points of the sand.

    That’s it. Wake up the morning after your second coat and go be stunned by

    your great garage floor.

    Now I feel like I’ve given something back. I hope this helps someone.

  22. weblog.brunton.org.uk Reply

    Hey Carl, huge thanks for the write up, I appreciate that this must have taken you a long time to type out.

    It sounds a lot more work than is actually detailed on the International Paints Tin, and I think if they had listed even some of this in bullet form it would have helped avert my problems.

    Looking at this work and the amount needed to lift the entire existing floor paint (barring the four marks where my wheels sit) I might be tempted just to lay rubber tiles for the wheels and leave it at that.

    However this is a superb reference for others coming to the thread to find out more about painting their garage floors. Many thanks again.

  23. Carl Finch Reply

    By the way…

    Whats F1?

    Is that some sort of spin-off on our INDIE series. ouch!

  24. weblog.brunton.org.uk Reply

    I believe it’s the fastest, most technical (both for the teams and the drivers) motorsport in the world where the cars race around tracks made up of right and left bends, as well as straights and chicanes – yes all on the same track during the same race!

  25. Jackie Sheward Reply

    Thanks for your site I am about to paint a 10,000 sq ft furniture warehouse and was looking at this paint you may have saved me a lot of time and money.International should note “Small voices can make a big noise”

    Jackie

  26. Derek Parsons Reply

    I have recently moved house to a brand new one and am thinking of painting my garage floor and have been doing some research. Interestingly, the house I have just moved from was also brand new when I bought it and I painted the floor with International Garage Floor paint. I followed the instructions religously but still experienced flaking where the wheels stood. I sent samples of the flakes to International and eventually got my money back – nearly £100. I would definitely not use them again

  27. John Lloyd Reply

    I have a new oak framed double car port with a new concrete floor. I hadn’t expected the resulting dust covered cars and was about to go out to buy some “one coat” concrete sealer (Thompsons or similar) when I came across this blog. Some very interesting stuff but much more work than I thought. I am happy with the “bare concrete” appearance but just want to keep down the dust. Is just a coat of sealer likely to cure that problem?

  28. weblog.brunton.org.uk Reply

    Well I’m no expert after the experience I’ve had, but I know what I would do next time, and that’s not to use the paint. I think that the sealant would have done the job just fine.

    Do make sure you clean the surfaces well before painting though, and I would suggest a metal brush to get the loose material off everything.

    Sealant, and possibly a couple of coats too. Let me know how it goes.

  29. Brian Wizard Reply

    As I write, I am having the screed laid on a new garage floor. I had assumed that I would seal and paint it using the “market leader” and went to the web to check it out. All of the comments in this blog have made me think again. Shall I just put up with the dust? The guy laying the screed says the best solution is to tile it!

    Don’t think I have the time or inclination to go through all that Carl Finch has done, regardless of the quality of the finish, but I would really like to avoid just bare concrete.

    Firwood products were mentioned in one of the posts and their site is quite interesting. In addition to a “garage paint” they have a water-borne, 2-pack epoxy product (Firaqua 2700) that looks to be the next level of protection. Is there any experience out there of this product?

    Alternatively, has anyone got any other tried and tested solutions rather than follow Richard’s latest post and stick with just the sealant?

  30. weblog.brunton.org.uk Reply

    Hey Brian. I have a friend who was sealing his garage with another type of paint and found exactly the same problem as I did and it happened when the paint was on top of the sealant.

    He went off to discuss this with a paint specialist and has come back with another paint that he’s trying on the areas under the tyres where the paint has lifted.

    I don’t have the details to hand, but I’ll get him to post them up on the site for us all, and also what the outcome was.

  31. martin Reply

    Was about to paint my floor don’t know what I would have bought as I always research first,I can assure you of this it will not be International Paints products. floor is a double detached 5mt sq approx will scabble(rough up the top surface) first good brush,then another good brush, seal and epoxy two pack, will let you know results and brand used when done, thanks for the tips on here, whilsh International Paints might be a waste of time this blog is not.

  32. weblog.brunton.org.uk Reply

    I had talked about a friend before that had used the same paint on his garage floor and had encountered exactly the same problems, well he went to a specialist and asked about the problem and the paint and was pointed towards Leyland Trade Heavy Duty Floor Paint.

    He’s painted squares where the paint lifted under his tyres and overlapping onto the International Paint, and he can confirm that it is not lifting.

    The beauty is that it didn’t need a precoat of anything on the bare concrete patches either – remember though he had cleaned them and painted the sealant on them prior to the International Paint, it’s just that it lifted with the International Paint.

    So this looks to be the option. He has some left over and has offered it to me so that I can patch up my floor. I’ll report back on how that goes too.

  33. Malcolm Banks Reply

    I am about to paint my garage floor. The concrete ws laid ca. 16 onths ago and although I have brushed it, I have done nothing else to it. I would like to paint it. I have consulted various blogs/threads/forums and saw yours with the last suggestion of Leyland Trade Heavy Duty paint. Did yor experiment mentioned above work. Is this paint expensive.

    Grateful for all the info from the blogs and even more so if it (Leyland paint) works OK

    Malc., Surrey

  34. weblog.brunton.org.uk Reply

    Hi Malcolm. Sorry for the delay, I’ve been neglecting my personal site for some time.

    I have not patched up my floor yet, and guess what? None of the rest of the paint has lifted, it’s still only where the warm tyres sit, so International Paint don’t dare to tell me it’s my application of it.

    Anyway, my friend has had his garage floor painted with the Leyland paint and he swears by it. I’ve been trying to get him to give a write up but he won’t! I’ll try him again!

  35. Nigel Reply

    found this page in passing (searching International Floor Paint in Google) and thought I would add some comments/thoughts/ideas of my own.

    I have painted 3 garage floors and used/abused them over the last 20 years, and found the following. The cheap single pack paints tend to work OK as long as cars don’t actually use the garage. The paint does fade quickly, and repainting every 2-3 years tends to become a chore. Makes a mockery of the use of the garage, but there you go.

    I now have a 500 sq ft workshop and after being appalled at the surface equality of the new garage floor, I decided I would have to “do something about it.” this will involve grinding the floor smooth, which requires hiring equipment – £150/week….

    Straight forward concrete floor paint is out as cars will most definitely be using the workshop. I have also considered, ceramic/granite floor tiles, plastic ones like formula 1 pit garages, carpet tiles, and goodness knows what else.

    I have recently contacted Watco in Godalming and they have informed me…

    The cheaper single pack floor paints are well known in the paint industry for suffering from adhesion problems due to warm tyres. The only solution to this is a 2 pack epoxy. This is the same kind of floor that goes down in professional garages/workshops. Just the slight problem of it coming out at £400 for my job. They do have high performance single pack paint which does a very similar task, and guess what? £400.

    So there you have it, with the floor preparation chemicals, which they strongly recommend, its £10/square metre for a job well done.

  36. Ciaran Reply

    Hi folks,

    Was reading the fallowing reviews and i am glad i came on this page as i was going to go to homebase today to buy Int garage floor paint for a 75sq metre garage. The garage floor is bare concrete and has been like that for over 15 years. I have bought pva sealer for the floor and had a keen eye for the smokey blue floor paint by international, but with the reviews from this product, im considering leyland and would like to know are there any probs with leylands and pva sealer, as this garage is used as a gym and for fixing cars so i cant take the risk of repainting the floor because there is too many heavey equipment too hard to move. and also would it be safe to seal and paint the floor one half at a time.

  37. Graham Reply

    Having read all your comments I was convinced that International must be aware of the problem and would have it resolved. How dumb of me!! Like you, I followed instructions to the letter and as soon as I moved the car off the paint came with it. I spoke to Akzo Nobel technical today and they confirmed that the “Garage floor paint” is not intended to have vehicles on it and should not be used for that purpose. They say that they specifically leave off any mention about driving on it and that all stockists are trained to give that advise. (Yeah right!!) As you all know it is not a cheap product and I am going to ask for my money back, I can’t be bothered to fight for compensation for all the effort that went in to doing the job but the cost of the rubbish product, I will fight for. Basically the advise must be that no matter what preparation you do it is not the right product if you want to put your car in the garage. I would think Trade Descriptions will have a field day with this one!

  38. Graham Reply

    Further to my post on 17th August I would just like to confirm that I got a full refund from Focus DIY for the International Paint purchased. I provided them with a copy of my email to Akzo Nobel that confirmed the Technical Departments advise that the product was not suitable if you intended to put cars on it. Incidentally, the tin I purchased, specifically stated that it resisted hot tyres and Akzo said this was ‘old livery (6-7 months)’ and that all new tins did not mention that. Focus checked their shelves from currently purchased stock and it all states that it is suitable. Like you Richard, Akzo Nobel have failed to come back to me and I suspect they won’t bother. If anybody reads this I would strongly suggest they give International a very wide berth.

  39. Nick Barnett Reply

    Well your blog has indeed been very useful to me. I had exactly the same experience. I was just searching t’internet for comments before re-painting, following what I now see is called tyre-lift. Reading your blog I see I had identical situation and experience – Iternational Paint, tyre-lift, followed instructions to the letter, finish remains OK elsewhere.

    Well, I will try to get my money back from B&Q and will look for an Epoxy paint. Incidentally, B&Q were dropping this product at the time – I got the last tin. I wonder if this might be the reason why????

    Thanks and regards, Nick Barnett

  40. donald gate Reply

    i have painted my garage with international floor paint as well , i cant leave a car on it over night as it pulls the paint off when you move, water left lying on it starts to break it up and it starts to flake, this product definately in my opinion does not do what it says on the tn

  41. Tony Lloyd-Davies Reply

    I have recently specified the International Paints gaage floor paint on a project for a simple double garage. I called the technical helpline and was assured that the paint was the correct product for the application. I have been advised that the paint has lifted where the wheels of the car sits, this after only 1 week use.

    Did you get anywhere when you made your threats and if you did what did it take to get the company to respond.

    thank you

    Tony

  42. Janet Noble Reply

    Hi Richard

    Just been reading some of the comments made,could’nt believe the amount of complaints…wow.I have just left an email on International Paint website about their garage paint.Last summer my husband and myself thought we would give the garage a treat and paint the walls and floor and when finished it looked really good. Did what it said on the tins, we coated the floor with two coat’s of Concrete Sealant and two coats of Garage Floor Paint.Don’t put the car in, so we didn’t have that experience of the tyre’s lifting the paint,but earlier this year we noticed a few area’s which had either a ‘dulled’ appearance or where the paint had lifted.Reason I noticed this was because we have a few carpet tiles near where the freezer and tumble drier is and I decided to lift these. I then noticed some of the paint had lifted underneath and assumed this was due to the vinyl backing,on inspecting other area’s of the floor more closely where we did not have the tiles I noticed some dull area’s and some where the paint had lifted,thought I would at least get a few years out of it, will see if they get back to me.

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